Drinking with a New Friend

I was sitting quietly on a logging road after my mid-morning break at Peavine Creek about a two day walk north of Burney Falls. I’m not sure what got my attention because I didn’t hear anything, but I looked up and across the road was a large mountain lion. A very large one about four feet long, plus a two foot tail and massive legs and paws.

He was walking down the dirt road to drink from the creek, and didn’t notice me. I didn’t want to startle the big fella so I moved slightly. That instantly got his attention, and he turned his head to directly stare at me. I met his gaze and we looked at each other for about 15 seconds. (It seemed much longer.) I don’t know what was going through his mind. Perhaps questions such as: Who is this smelly beast that’s at my watering hole? Is this guy a threat or a morning snack?

I entertained similar questions. Am I cat food? Should I take a photo? Am I really seeing this amazing creature? I decided to keep my phone in my pocket, and just stay in the moment and engage with this wild creature. He wasn’t at all worried about me, just curious. He no doubt has seen many humans in his woods, but I assume rarely has met one as unexpectedly as this. His gaze stayed steady and seemed intelligent.

It’s not the first time I’ve encountered a wild animal that is stronger and deadlier than me. I’ve also seen grizzlies and black bears at close range. I wasn’t particularly scared. In fact, I felt grateful for the experience, especially since he was just looking at me rather than hunting. In more than 50 years of backpacking, this is the first time I’ve seen a mountain lion. But you never know what actions a wild animal might take, so after a while (15 seconds to be exact) I decided to take the actions that you are supposed to do when encountering a mountain lion: Make yourself look as big and powerful as possible. So I puffed out my chest, raised my head and prepared to stand up. That was enough. The big cat turned around and silently loped off back down the road and into the forest.

I took a swig of the same Peavine Creek water that the big guy was seeking, and returned to the trail. From the way he loped off, it appeared that the lion didn’t want anything to do with me. Just in case, every few minutes for the next mile, I scanned behind me for signs that I was being stalked. Fortunately, the cat had other plans.

High Tech Hiking

I’m heading back out on the trail on Wednesday. I’m packing a new gadget: Garmin Inreach which allows friends and family to follow my trek day-by-day. PM if you’d like to do so.

When to Stop & When to Go

Sunset above the South Fork of the Kern River….When I saw the river twinkling at dusk, I knew it was time to stop hiking and enjoy the view.

Before I started on the PCT from Campo, I thought endlessly about how many miles I should walk per day to achieve my goal of hiking from Mexico to Canada.  On the trail, I met more folks who focused on their daily mileage goals.  It was nice to meet or exceed my daily goal, and disappointing when I did not.  After a few days, I figured out having such specific mileage goals was a stressor I didn’t need.  So just before the new moon in April I decided to dispense with goal-setting, and when the new moon arrived I embraced a plan of letting my body decide when to wake up, when to rest and when to stop for the day.  The one exception was the need to find water sources in the desert.

One of a handful of springs in the desert section of the PCT that you must plan your day around.

Letting my body make these decisions has been a new kind of freedom.  I usually wake up at just before sunrise, but sometimes I sleep later if I need the extra rest.  And after hiking all day long, I’m usually asleep by 8:30pm.  I know, it’s a boring routine.  The system has worked so far.  My physical body continues to gain strength and recovers each night.  Mentally, the avoidance of meeting a deadline or a goal has reduced my stress.  Funny, how much retirement has changed my perspective.  My work day was usually scheduled from 6am to 6pm. 

I watch the stars until I fall asleep.  I don’t have to check in with anyone but me on when to wake, when to eat, when to take a break, when to stop hiking for the day, when to sleep.  Friends on the trail ask me: “Where are you camping tonight, Pak Dave?”  My initial answer was: “Wherever my feet decide.”  Because my feet always wanted to stop at 1pm, I changed that to: “Wherever my body decides.”  We usually self-caucus around 5pm, and decide how much energy we have left.  Sometimes it’s a lively debate with the feet and legs voting to stop early, and the rest of my body voting to push ahead for a while.  What often decides the question is if there is an especially inviting place to camp.  However, since there have been few such places in the past 700 miles of desert hiking, we usually set up camp around 6:30pm.  In the stretch ahead, I may be stopping earlier to do some fishing or reading by a lake. Other hikers like to hike long past that time, and I’ve seen some folks on the trail at 2am.

As you can see, 10-12 hours on the trail each day allows for some really boring self-dialogue, but once in a while some fresh thoughts as my perspective changes from city-life to trail life.

Canti,

Pak Dave

Courage vs. Cougars

Editor’s Note: This blog contains video that is creepy and will scare the hell out of you. Proceed with caution.

There are lots of city people on the PCT who don’t have much experience with the wilderness and the creatures that live there. One woman I met was a successful businesswoman from Washington, DC, mainly doing translations for the government. She had a thriving company, but was burnt out. So she fired herself and took a sabbatical, including hiking the Pacific Crest Trail this year.

In early April, she camped in a dry canyon just north of Scissors Crossing (San Diego County). It turns out I was camped only a mile or so away, but experienced a quiet night beneath the stars, not the horror story my friend lived that evening.

Pak Dave’s messy cowboy camp in eastern San Diego County.

Around 8 PM (bedtime for most PCT hikers), she heard what she described as a combination of a witch’s scream and a baby crying. The sound was terrifying. She had some cell service and did some research, figuring out it was probably a mountain lion. There’s lore that this howl is a way for the cougar to lure good samaritans to rescue what they think is a suffering child, only to be eaten. Others have suggested it’s simply a mating call. Bottomline: It created soul-shattering fright for her.

Female cougar screaming like a banshee mixed with baby cries. Yikes!

But did this city girl go crazy with fear? Not for a second. Her solution: Switch on the Thelma & Louise video she had downloaded, and channel their female courage. After watching these gals kick butt for an hour, my friend settled down to a good night’s sleep with no nightmares. And most importantly it gave her a riveting trail story for future hiker gatherings. I heard it at Mike’s Place.

Meet an Angel

Earth Hippie (Raymond) and Pak Dave at Walker Pass Campground

Walking into the Walker Pass Campground after a long day, I thought the pony-tailed guy wearing tie-dye, smoking weed and talking about catching and eating rattlesnakes was just another of the many characters you meet along the trail. 

But he turned out to be anything but.  His name is Raymond and of course his trail name is Earth Hippie. Bounce, another hiker, and I were too tired to hold up our end of the conversation, so Earth Hippie talked for all three of us.  He knew the region quite well because he’d grown up in Ridgecrest and roamed these dry hills as a kid. He pointed out where the Kern River drainage was located and our route to Kennedy Meadows the next day, talked about the best fishing spots, but his passion is Frisbee Golf. He brought out his discs and tutored us on how to throw each of them for distance and accuracy.  He plays every day no matter where he’s located. If there’s not an official course, he creates one from the landscape.  He told us the story of when he first tried LSD at 11-years old.

But the conversation turned interesting when he told us his 70’s love story.  During high school in Ridgecrest, he and his sweetheart had sworn eternal love to one another.  But her parents had no interest in their smart daughter having any kind of relationship with a boy known for being a wild child since birth and who was the town’s leading pot dealer.  They went their separate ways. Raymond, Earth Hippie, moved to Colorado where he met another woman and raised seven children.  His partner suffered from mental illness, and left him with the kids, and he ended up spending 28 years raising them.  When the last one left the nest, Earth Hippie let the universe know that he was ready to find a new partner.  This was before Tinder, and so he put the word out through energetic channels, he said, because he has a direct relationship with God and the universe.  I rolled my eyes at that.

Six women called him the first week, but none seemed to be a good fit.  Finally, via Facebook, he received a message from his old high school sweetheart.  She’d just finished up a distinguished career doing super-secret work in the USA and abroad.  She still loved Earth Hippie and vice versa.  Raymond told her that she had contacted him on the very same date they had fallen in love in high school.  She said that couldn’t be true.  He proved it by asking her to remember the password for the bank account they had started together in high school which was the date they fell in love. She started crying.  Earth Hippie told us that stuff like this has happened to him since birth.  They got together and looked for a place to live.  They liked Durango, CO…but his sweetie said no because it didn’t have a Frisbee Golf Course, and she knew Earth Hippie would be unhappy without one nearby.  They chose another town in Colorado. 

We said goodbye to Earth Hippie, set up camp and walked three more days to Kennedy Meadows.  I was headed back to Berkeley for Max’s birthday party and some R&R.  But getting home was not easy.  I spent the night in Ridgecrest and early the next morning was at a bus stop for the 3-hour ride to Bakersfield, followed by a 6 hour train trip.  And guess who showed up?  Earth Hippie drove up and parked on his way to the Frisbee Golf course across the street from the bus stop.  We chatted, and then I checked the bus schedule again because it was late.  It turned out I was at the wrong stop, and not only had missed the bus but would miss the train and miss Max’s birthday party.  Earth Hippie just said, “Why do you think I’m here, get in the car.”  He told me he was told to be at this park today by the Supreme Being, so he showed up not knowing what he was supposed to do but play Frisbee golf.  “My hair stands on end when God works through me,” he said.  He drove me to Lake Isabella fifty miles away to catch up with the bus.  He smoked weed and talked the entire time of course.  He said these things happen to him all of the time.  He figured out at eight-years old who he was, an eternal soul completely connected to God, the universe and every living thing in it. 

When we were approaching Lake Isabella, he said he’d been given another mission to pick up a PCT hiker.  Sure enough, when we arrived at the bus station, there was a guy who was ecstatic to get a ride from Raymond, an angel dressed up like a 64-year old hippie.

Just Say Yes

Biggi near Cutthroat Pass in Washington

The best piece of trail advice I’ve received was from my friend Biggi who I met just south of San Jacinto Mountain.  She lives in British Columbia.  Last year she hiked every part of the PCT except for the southern section, including solo trekking up several Sierra passes. In other words, Biggi is a bad ass.

As a rookie to the PCT, I was looking for some pro tips, so I asked Biggi what was the most important recommendation she had for a successful PCT trek. Her answer surprised me. It wasn’t about gear, or fitness or technique.  It was this: Be willing to be vulnerable. Be open to the unexpected. Say Yes when people invite you to their homes or to do something.  She went on to describe many of her best adventures on the trail.  For example, she met Kathy on the trail near Fish Lake in Oregon who invited her to call if she needed anything.  When Biggi hit deep snow around Crater Lake, she called Kathy who picked her up. and invited her to stay at her house.  Biggi said, “Yes.”  Kathy is now one of her best friends, and they talk weekly.

In the southern California desert, Biggi hiked much faster than me….because she’s a bad ass…. and I’m just not.  We kept in touch via text and she gave me the names of the many Trail Angels she stayed with.  I was reluctant to do so at first, wanting to have a little privacy during rest days at a motel rather than engaging with a stranger.  But gradually I opened up.  I began to say yes to people.  When I needed help, I began to ask for it. And the many Trail Angels I met have really been a great part of the adventure so far.

So be careful if you ask me to dinner or to stay over or to travel to Africa with you because you know what my answer will be.

Canti,

Pak Dave

Day One…Campo to Hauser Creek

Thanks to my Aunt Marie and Uncle Bob who shuttled me to Campo

There is something bittersweet about the start of the Pacific Crest Trail. I’m thrilled to see the monument marking the trail’s southern terminous. It’s the beginning of something all PCT hikers having been dreaming about and planning for months.

But just behind the monument looms the tall, ominous steel border wall plunging into valleys and spanning hills for hundreds of miles. I’ve seen it on TV and in photos, but seeing it for real in the early morning light is a bleak reminder of the struggles for survival and the death and despair that take place here in the borderlands. It reminds me of the MadMax films of chaos and conflict. It’s sad. And all day long as I’m hiking, it stays in view.

Top photo: Border Wall near PCT southern terminous. Bottom photo: Statue of Liberty with the inscription: Give me your tired, your poor, Your huddled masses, yearning to breathe free.” Which one better reflects our values?

But I’m also pumped with adrenaline and excited to start the hike. I get lost immediately, and am guided back to the trail by two construction workers who are building roads that parallel the Wall. They are friendly and one shares a story about hiking with his son. It’s the first of many such encounters along the trail where people are friendly and excited to talk to you about hiking and their own experiences.

This is dry, desert country. It’s early in the year, and there’s a seasonal creek flowing about four miles away, and I stop for lunch and fill up my water bottle. Remarkably, the grass is green and wildflowers are starting to bloom. I’m blessed to have started early enough to see the desert’s brief spring.

California Peony

About mile ten, I feel a blister on my right foot. Ouch. I’m learning to navigate with the Guthook App which not only is a trail map, but full of information from hikers ahead of me. It turns out a Trail Angel has left several gallons of water at Hauser Creek which is dry. I decide to set up camp along the dry creek because I’ll have enough water thanks to the angel. Plus it’s getting dark and my feet are sore.

Hauser Creek campsite

Canti, Dave (Trailname: TableStakes)

The Truth Shall Set You Free….if you understand what it means

MK Gandhi

When I first read Gandhi’s autobiography about how he developed his method of non-violence, The Story of My Experiments with Truth, I understood the history, but was confused on how he defined Truth.  In fact, the story is about his evolving understanding of Truth as he confronted empires to lead India to independence.  Truth means more than correctly stating facts.  Indeed Gandhi took the term beyond its conventional meaning of being truthful in thought, speech and action.  Ultimately he arrived at the idea of Absolute Truth which he defined as Truth is God.

“Truth is God, and truth overrides all our plans.”

Interestingly, however, Gandhi makes Truth an individual quest.  He said, “Truth is what the voice within tells you”. It is a person who is the authority of this knowledge. It is not a cultural tradition, a Holy Book nor any social or state organization to determine the content of Truth. It is an individual in the final analysis, after discussion with others and seriously pondering, to make the decision.

To understand this better I consulted my teacher, Jeffrey Armstrong (Kavindra Rishi).  He pointed me to the definition of Dharma to explain what Gandhi was getting at.  

Dharma: From the root dhri—the essential nature of anything, which, if you take it away, that thing is no longer itself. For example, the dharma of water is to be liquid. Dharma is the basis of the English ‘truth’. Dharma also means to stand for what is true. Once someone knows their dharma, their duty is to live that truth. (From the Bhagavad Gita Comes Alive: A Radical Translation)

It sounds so easy; all you need to know is your essential nature.  How hard could that be? It turns out that, at least for me, this was the 1,000,000 piece puzzle. I tried out a lot of stuff,  explored many dead ends, consulted numerous holy books and gurus and dug deeply into my American, Irish, and Christian cultural traditions. Didn’t find it. 

What finally helped was finding a teacher who could explain who I really was: an eternal, conscious, individual and joyous being from the transcendental exploring the material world one lifetime after another until I finish my degree by finding and living my Truth. After that awakening, things began to fall into place and after consulting with others, including Bhagavan (Supreme Being), I realized my mission at this point is understand and practice Kindness, Compassion and Unconditional Love.  Writing this blog is part of my duty to live this Truth, but the hard part of course is to practice these concepts every second.

This is where Gandhi stepped back into my life. First, he explained that on our journey to find Absolute Truth we can’t always see it fully, and must practice with only a partial glimpse of it through what he calls relative Truth.  This has been my journey…seeing only part of the Truth, and sometime getting peeks at the whole thing.  He also connects Love and Truth: “Love and truth are two sides of the same coin.”

And finally Gandhi said: “Whenever you have truth it must be given with love, or the message and the messenger will be rejected.”

Which brings me to Jesus who said: “Ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall make you free” (John 8:32).

So even if our culture tells us it’s naïve to believe in Truth, there’s lots of evidence in our own lives that we should run after it with all our hearts. As a wise person said: “Listen to the voice within, it will set you free. And that promise is true for all time.”

Beginning a New Journey

Have backpack. Will travel

On Monday March 8 I started a new journey at the Mexican border. I’ll be hiking the Pacific Crest Trail from Mexico to Canada, a journey of 2,650 miles. Up to this point, this blog has chronicled a part of my spiritual journey. Now it will also include a journal of the natural wonders, people, adventures and also spiritual insights along the trail. This quest, like all good adventures, will likely involve overcoming physical, mental and spiritual challenges along the way. I’m psyched!! Some have suggested psycho. Perhaps the most important key to success on a quest is to have angels to support you. My Chief Trail Angel is my beloved partner, Felicity. Thank you for having patience with me and supporting this dream.

Let the journey begin.

Canti,
TableStakes (My trail name)

What You Really Want: Unconditional Love

Frances Fogarty

I’m very lucky.  My mother was all about unconditional love.  She gave out bushels of it to me, my sibs, her grandkids, and many, many others. I don’t know its dictionary definition, but when my mother said she loved you she meant she saw you for who you are, and threw her arms around you and loved you no matter what. 

Receiving this kind of love is such a gift.  It gives you buoyant confidence in being who you are.  It gives you a safe haven from the material world.  It makes you feel you peaceful and balanced. It was shanti which means not only peace, but inner balance.

She went to a Christian church from which she distilled a simple philosophy:  God is Love.  Here’s a quote that expresses her view: “We know how much God loves us, and we have put our trust in his love. God is love, and all who live in love live in God, and God lives in them. John 3:16

This idea is also at the core of Vedic philosophy.  In this case the supreme being (Bhagavan) is loving and all pervasive and dwells in everyone and every thing.

Sadly, I have not always been my mother’s best student.  I admit to sometimes giving out puny love, not the bountiful no holds bar kind.  Apologies.  But I know how I’m supposed to love thanks to Mom, Jesus and the Vedas.

“Love is patient, love is kind. It does not envy, it does not boast, it is not proud. It does not dishonor others, it is not self-seeking, it is not easily angered, it keeps no record of wrongs. Love does not delight in evil but rejoices with the truth. It always protects, always trusts, always hopes, always perseveres.”  1 Corinthians 13:4-8