Eco-Progress: A Balinese Recycling Success Story

Eight years ago, Tangkas villagers like people throughout Indonesia tossed their household waste into the river. They really had no other option.  There were no government or private waste management alternatives.  Semarapura, the biggest city in the region, had trash pickup but it was indiscriminately tipped into the local dump in Dawan which often caught on fire and polluted the village’s air and water.

Ketut Darmawan

Our friend Ketut Darmawan from Tangkas decided he would find a solution, and in 2016 he did. He established the Tangkas Village Recycling Program (TPS) which picks up garbage every two days from the 300 households it serves.  TPS staff then recycles 93% of the waste.  The organic materials are turned into compost which farmers use in their fields and the plastics, glass and metals are recycled.  Darmawan was the engine behind this effort, and he built a coalition of supporters including the Klungkung Regional government who paid to build the recycling center, the Tangkas village government who helped pay for its staff and operations and Keep Bali Beautiful which set up an Airbnb Tour Experience to cover the remaining operational costs.  An award-winning video by film-maker Jillian Li beautifully describes the system. You can view the video here.

After TPS proved successful, the question arose: Can this operation be scaled up to be used as a model for other villages and regions in Bali? 

Klungkung Regency Governor I Nyoman Suwirta

You bet it could. Thanks to Klungkung’s innovative Governor, I Nyoman Suwirta, funding and leadership by Indonesia’s federal government under President Jokowi and most especially Darmawan’s gifted management skills, there is now an efficient regional waste management system that has replicated the Tangkas village success.

You have to give a lot of credit to Governor Suwirta.  He provided seed money to the Tangkas village program, and watched to see if Darmawan could achieve his goals. When the TPS proved successful, he plucked Darmawan out of the private sector and gave him the government job of creating a regional waste management system. Most importantly, the Governor gave Darmawan the capital funds to build it out.  About the same time, Bali’s provincial government also pitched in with funds as did the national government.  Jokowi’s administration also wrote policies to establish federal recycling and waste management standards.  And perhaps the hardest step of all: Balinese citizens began to change their minds and became very supportive of efforts to clean up their villages and towns.

Organic waste converted into fertilizer

In less capable hands this mashup of village, regional, provincial and federal agencies, plus the private sector could have spelled disaster.  But Darmawan with his rare combination of management and political skills wove together a workable and efficient system. It works like this: Capital funding from the Klungkung region, operational funding from the Bali province and federal government, villages which provide the land for building waste and recycling facilities and help from private sector partners such Bali Waste Cycle which retrieves recycled materials from Klungkung and arranges for their transformation into new products.

I saw the system in operation at the region’s central waste processing facility, whose acronym ironically is TOSS.  This is where the City of Semarapura’s waste is processed.  Every two days a truck picks up waste from the city’s households.  (Commercial operations like the local market receive every day pickup.)  They return to TOSS where workers sort the waste into four categories: 1) Organic waste, 2) Recyclable materials (glass, metal and plastic) that can be sold, 3) Residue that is sold in bulk, and 4) Leftover waste that is trucked to the dump. 

In addition, village recycling operations similar to the TPS in Tangkas have been set up in 42 of the Klungkung region’s 53 villages.

The operation has been an unqualified success.  Before, all of this garbage would have been dumped into the river, burned or piled up at the dump.  Now, nearly 97% of it is recycled or reused.  The organic waste, which makes up the bulk of the waste stream, is made into compost which is provided to farmers.  Darmawan is continually improving the system.  For example, after touring composting operations in Japan last year, he tweaked his system to make it even more efficient. 

Loading fertilizer composted from organic waste for delivery to farmers

The recycling operation requires a whole team of workers to first sort the materials into bags for glass, metal, and the many types of plastic that can be recycled.  These range from high value plastic which sells for 1,200rp ( eight cents) per ton to lower value plastic bags which sell for 300rp (two cents) per ton.  The sorting is supervised by Bali Waste Cycle staff.  Every day one of their truck arrives to pick up the recycled products. Klungkung’s share of the recycling revenue goes back into the program. Bali Waste Cycle then combines Klungkung’s recycled products with those from its other clients in Denpasar and other places.

The residue waste stream is composed of bits of plastic, dirt and other junk that cannot be composted or recycled.  Villagers often burned this junk or tossed it into the street.  But now collects it and sends it to a manufacturer in Surabaya where it’s mixed into cement and becomes part of Indonesia’s expanding road and freeway infrastructure.

The remaining 3% is trucked to the dump in Dawan village.  The goal is to reduce this amount to zero.

Education is also an important part of Darmwan;’s mission.  There are regular tours of TOSS by school groups who receive a tour and learn about the benefits of recycling and how it really works.  Darmawan also works with Eco Clubs at Klungkung’s high schools which help in spreading the word and supporting the syste

Darmawan giving a tour to school kids

For the most part, Klungkung citizens are enthusiastic about the system.  Pak Gus Gangga from Dawan is enthusiastic about the improvements noting the reduced truck traffic in his village.  He is also excited that a new village TPS recently opened in Dawan.  He’s observed that the village is cleaner and free from the trash that once was freely tossed.  Currently, Klungkung citizens are paying very little for the program.  Federal law sets household costs at 3,000rp a month (about 20 cents US).  By contrast, a 20kg bag of rice costs 250,000rp. Commercial and industrial waste pickup costs are also established by federal policy. 

The low prices charged to citizens and businesses create support for the program, but they hardly pay the cost for the operations. For example, while monthly operational costs are about 310,000,000RP per month, fee revenue is about 17 million RP or about 5%. Government subsidies make up the difference for now.

It’s a huge success, but Darmawan is still working to make it even better.  He’s working to build village recycling centers in places that don’t yet have them, and he’s continuing to make the system work better and more efficiently. 

Where Klungkung has succeeded, other regions have not yet established workable systems.   But there appears to be growing interest in following Klungkung’s example. In fact, people from throughout Bali and the rest of Indonesia are making the trek to Klungkung to ask for Darmawan’s advice and help.

What Would Ayu Say?

Ayu at Lincoln Memorial

My friend Ayu is a bright, young Balinese woman who works for the Bank of Indonesia. Last year, she took a business trip to Washington DC, Philadelphia, New York and Boston. Her Facebook posts about these places were positive and showed off our country’s famous landmarks.

But over dinner the other night, she asked a difficult question: “Pak Dave, why are so many people living on the streets in America?”

I struggled to find an answer. I told her the problem just isn’t in those cities, but nationwide especially in California where I live, and in my town of Berkeley. “But what is happening Pak Dave?” Ayu quizzed. “I thought America is the richest country in the world. Why are these people on the street, and why are they hungry and very dirty?”

A little background…The view from a Balinese person’s perspective is that all Americans are indeed wealthy, even the budget travelers. How else could they afford to fly across the world to this beautiful island, live in hotels and eat at restaurants.  Traveling is a luxury that only the well-off can afford in Indonesia, although that’s beginning to change some as it develops a middle class. Ayu wasn’t trying to dump on the USA.  She was honestly trying to understand the disconnect between her perception of America and the reality she observed.

Homeless in Berkeley

I gave it a shot. “Well, housing is very expensive in my country, and the people who cannot afford it must live on the streets. Some cities and states provide temporary shelters for these folks, but there’s just not enough room for everyone.” Ayu shook her in response, but I could tell she didn’t get it.  I tried again.  “Also, some of these folks are mentally ill or are alcoholics and drug addicts, and they don’t know how to access services or don’t want them.” That seemed lame the moment I said it.

“Honestly Ayu, I really don’t know why this is happening, and I’m embarrassed I don’t know.  I walk past a dozen or more homeless people every day in Berkeley.  I give money to some of them, steer clear of those who are raving, and just feel bad when I see two older women packing up their tent every morning, so they won’t be harassed by the police. I’ve never researched the causes of why people are homeless, and why our governments can’t solve the problem.” 

Ayu took pity on me and changed the subject. But I could not forget her simple question. Why are there so many homeless people in the richest country in the world?

In the weeks that followed in Bali and on trips to see friends on the islands of Flores and Lombok, I looked for homeless people and pestered my friends with questions of how they deal with poor people who don’t have homes.  The truth is I never actually saw any homeless people on any of these three islands although there were plenty of poor people living in very humble places.  Also, there are nearly an estimated three million people living in Jakarta. My Balinese friend Putu explained that in Bali the family takes care of its own, finding food and shelter for all, including those with mental illness.  Backing up the family, is the banjar which is a traditional Balinese neighborhood organization that rallies the community for funerals, weddings and other key ceremonies.  It also keeps track of every member, and notes who needs help including food, health care, housing… you name it. One of Putu’s jobs is to maintain a database of every member, noting who might need extra help.  The banjar makes sure no one falls through the cracks.  There are a lot of banjar rules and regulations to follow, and like any small group everyone knows everyone else’s business. The final layer of help is the government at the village, region and provincial levels who allocate funds and services for people that the banjar identifies as needing them.  This four-layered support system works. Even during the COVID crisis when Bali’s economy tanked, no one went hungry or unhoused.

Martina & Jek and their big family.

A similar system exists further east on the island of Flores, which is a primarily Catholic population compared to Bali’s mainly Hindu population. Our friend Martina and her husband Jek both come from very poor families, but they have managed to take care not only of their four kids, but also dozens of nieces, nephews, cousins and others over the years.  They cook on a wood fire, but no one goes hungry or without someplace to sleep even if it’s on the floor with a blanket.  Backing up the family in their Maumere community is a uniquely Indonesia institution known as the Rukun Tetangga (RT).  The RT in Maumere includes about 30-50 households and its function is like Bali’s banjar system. A Chair and Vice Chair lead the RT, and members take on various roles including identifying people that need services and resolving neighborhood conflicts.  The government provides additional services as identified through the RT.  The system is nationwide in each of Indonesia’s 13,000 inhabited islands.

I don’t want to be too gushy about all this.  I’m sure there are plenty of places in Indonesia where the system is a mess especially in Jakarta where there are large ghettos with high-rise buildings next door.  But for the most part even in the poorest villages, people have something to eat, can access health care and have some kind of shelter even though it may be a tin roof shanty.

One of the key takeaways is that at least in Bali, Lombok and Flores people are seen.  Someone knows who they are and their family story.  There is not the same level of isolation and alienation that we have in America.  And there appears to be a system in place that identifies those in need and provides services even if they are meager compared to what we have.

Not long after my trip to Indonesia, we were having dinner with a new friend in New York City.  I was describing Indonesia’s support system.  Initially, she was impressed as I was, but after thinking about it a moment she said that the banjar system seemed a little too intrusive for her with everyone in the neighborhood knowing your stuff, not to mention all those social rules to follow. She preferred a little more independence, and I could see her point.

I cherish freedom and independence too, and life in the banjar might be a little too restrictive.  But maybe we need to stretch our comfort zones.  Sure, we need to take care of family first, but perhaps we need to learn from our southeast Asian friends that a more systematic approach to community that sees all of our neighbors, most importantly those in need, might help avoid people falling through the cracks.  It might be a start to solve our homeless problem and also the isolation, loneliness and alienation that so many Americans suffer from. I wonder how Ayu would suggest we get started.

Thanks a lot

Balinese ceremony saying thanks.

Saying thank you seems like such a small thing, but it can lead to a whole new way of living your life:

It changes your mood.

It changes how people react to you.

It changes how you see the world.

It changes how you see other people.

It changes how you see the earth.

It changes how you see the Supreme Being.

It makes you happy.

It makes others happy.

It sets you free.

Many years ago, when Felicity and I were writing a magazine article about the Maori people of New Zealand, I was impressed by their tradition of saying thank you to the fish they caught for a meal, to the trees they cut to build their house…you get the point. Saying thanks changed the whole equation. It expressed humility and acknowledged our relationship with the forests, rivers, fish and other natural resources we rely on in this life.  

Big thanks to this big rainbow trout who returned to the Big Horn River that day.

 We tried it out and guess what: Gratitude changes your mood…for the better.  It helps you look for the light and blessings in your life. It makes room for what comes next: Kindness, Compassion and Unconditional Love.

Thanks to our Chicago family this holiday

Thank you! 

And thanks to our North Carolina family.

Terima Kasih!

And thanks to Mother Nature for this beauty from the Knife’s Edge in Washington State.

Suksuma!

Gratsi milla!

What’s so Good about Grace?

Every blog needs an adorable cat photo, especially if her name is Gracie

You can’t earn it.  You can’t buy it.  You can only receive it with gratitude.  What I’m talking about is Grace.  It’s given to you freely, abundantly and lovingly by Bhagavan (God).  It’s yours to cherish while you live in the material world.  It helps free you from the cycle of karma, and it remains with you when you return to transcendental existence.[1]

So what is Grace? All religions embrace it, and I will summarize their views in a moment.  But I first want to share my initial experience of Grace.  I was 20 years-old standing on the Berkeley shoreline at sunset, and for the first time I experienced being part of God and the entirety of existence for that moment and in all time. This was not an abstract experience, and I was not taking psychedelics or any other drug.  It was a very powerful feeling of personally belonging in a loving universe in which God, the natural world, other humans, other animals including me were playing.  I realized this way of being was what I had been looking for a very long time, over many human lifetimes.  I understand now this experience is Grace.  It’s warm and cozy and loving and it explains who you are, and what you are part of. 

And then I forgot.  I didn’t forget immediately and not entirely, but that experience gradually receded from my day-to-day life.  It took a very long time to recover Grace, and to understand the treasure that I had been given. During that more than 40-year long journey I now understand that I was searching to find Grace even though I didn’t know that was what I was looking for it, and therefore I took a very long and winding road to rediscover it. 

Grace thrives in Bali.

I began the search by studying Christianity, but that didn’t feel like my path.  I looked into other religions as well, but they weren’t my way either.  The quest took me to an ashram in Bali where I learned Vedic mantras, and saying those prayers over many decades really did help. It also helped to study Gandhi.  My growing love with Felicity pushed me further on the rediscovery process, and when I looked into my newborn sons eyes I began to understand as well.  I learned from friends, family, colleagues and even strangers. I learned it from doing service for others. But what really revved up my journey was finding a teacher, Jeffrey Armstrong, who finally explained what those mantras I had been reciting for so many years really meant.  He gave me the vocabulary and context to understand my experience that day 46 years ago on the Berkeley shoreline: We are divine beings living in a world that is loving, cozy and fully connected in place and time.

Understanding the philosophy of the Vedas was huge step forward, but to actually return to living the Grace I had once found, I needed another teacher.  I found him in Coimbotore, India.  His name is Baba and he showed me how to taste Bhagavan (God) again, and once I found that taste I’ve never forgotten it. Once you know the taste of chocolate, you don’t forget it, right?

Oh, from time-to-time, I do forget, but thanks to Jeffrey and Baba, I have the philosophical and tantric tools to get back in the groove, and stay in Grace…for which I am eternally grateful.

Here’s how three religions describe Grace

“Therefore, O Arjuna, wholeheartedly take shelter in the divine refuge of My Being, receive the loving gift of blissful existence, and soon you will attain to My immortal realm.”

Bhagavad Gita, Chapter 18 Verse 62

In Vedic philosophy, of which I am a very imperfect student, Grace, the eternal and unconditional loving gift of blissful experience, is yours simply by embracing Bhagavan (God). Christianity has a very similar view that Grace is the love given to us by God because God wants us to have it, not necessarily because of anything we have done to earn it.

“For by grace you have been saved through faith. And this is not your own doing; it is the gift of God, not a result of works, so that no one may boast.”

Ephesians, Chapter 2 Verses 8-9

And Grace is a key element of Islam:

“God is the Possessor of Infinite Grace” and “He bestows this grace upon whomsoever He wills (or desires).

Quran, Chapter 62 Verse 4 and Chapter 57 Verse 29

Is it really this simple?

  • How can there be Grace in a world of suffering, pain and death?
  • What if I don’t deserve Grace?
  • How can I get some of that Grace?

Some context may help.

[1] According to the Vedas, (the ancient library of knowledge from which Hindu and other religions derive) who we are really is an atma or soul who is an eternal, conscious, and joyous individual being.  We decided to visit the material world (earth, et al) to gain experience.  While here, we cycle through various lives and deaths as humans and other animals.  This is known as reincarnation.  In other words we are eternal, conscious and divine atmas (souls) who go through many lives and deaths.  Think of Bill Murray in the film, Groundhog Day. While in the material world, we are subject to the laws of karma which are the actions and reactions caused by the exercise of our free will. When we are finished with what we have come to learn and experience here in the material world, and are free of karma, then we, as atmas, return to the transcendental world from which we came.  Note: Credit to my teacher Jeffrey Armstrong for this information.  Any screw-ups are mine alone.

And if you really want to go deep:

For anyone interested in a new and inspired translation of the Bhagavad Gita, go to GitaComesAlive.com

Washing it Off

Water purification ritual at Lampuyang…a rite that Balinese do at least once a day

One of the things I love most about Bali are the water purification rituals. 

Every day, Balinese people take part in this rite which involves being sprinkled with holy water, drinking it three times and then washing three times. It’s a simple, but powerful ritual to ward off spiritual and energetic gunk that has stuck to you.  This could be from an angry confrontation, some evil spirits grabbing you, a bad dream or some bad thoughts or feelings you may be having about yourself or someone else.

Whatever it is, you can use this ritual to get rid of it…to let it go.  We sometimes dismiss such rituals in the west, but they can be effective ways of first acknowledging that detritus is sticking to you and then dealing with it or simply letting it wash away.

The act of letting this junk go is what reminded me of Nirvana.  And there is a link to the main point of this blog (Kindness, Compassion and Unconditional Love).  Because these practices often require letting go of some useless stuff like anger, expectations, and keeping track of whose right and wrong.  It’s impossible to be kind and compassionate if you’re pissed off at someone. In fact, the best marriage advice I ever heard was from a retired general we met in India who said: “Best thing for a good marriage is a sense of humor and a bad memory.”

The Balinese are practical folks.  They get that everyday sprinkling of purification may not be enough if you’re experiencing some big problem.  Sometimes the whole village needs to get cleansed from some bad stuff going around.  All the villagers might load into the truck and vans and head over to a water temple like Tirta Empul to get clean from the bad energy of a neighborly dispute.  I once witnessed a woman who had been possessed being taken to a temple by her family to be cleansed.  The evil spirit writhed, twisted and fought against getting dunked into the holy water. It was like a scene from the Exorcist. The demon resisted and the lady flailed about until her husband dunked her in and she spit the evil thing out.  Took about ten minutes in all, but she exited the water clean and free of what had possessed her.

Which makes me think about our country. Perhaps we all need a ritual cleanse.  So haul yourself down to the beach or jump in a pool and wash that evil joojoo coming from DC and Mar A Lago off….at a safe distance of course.  But get it off you…scrub well…maybe scream some of the frustration out…and then hit the streets to boot the devil out, so we can scrub the WH clean.

Sorry for the political moment…

Canti,

Pak Dave

Doing a full-body cleanse at Sebatu, Bali